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scot_douglas wrote:
Did I ever mention how the quality of one's life (in the garage) is directly proportional to the amount of correct tools are on hand for a project?
I get this one fully. My wife, however, does not, and wants to know why "sometimes you're so grouchy, and other times you seem to be as happy as can be out there."
I replaced the fuel tank on my S-10 in the driveway by myself, including lifting the box off the frame with a floor jack and blocks of wood. My neighbor knew then that I am certifiable... 
So, is the "new" chassis just a frame donor, or more?
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What color you painting it? Or was it mentioned earlier?
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Linear Man wrote:
scot_douglas wrote:
Did I ever mention how the quality of one's life (in the garage) is directly proportional to the amount of correct tools are on hand for a project?
I get this one fully. My wife, however, does not, and wants to know why "sometimes you're so grouchy, and other times you seem to be as happy as can be out there."
I replaced the fuel tank on my S-10 in the driveway by myself, including lifting the box off the frame with a floor jack and blocks of wood. My neighbor knew then that I am certifiable...
So, is the "new" chassis just a frame donor, or more?
Purely frame and front suspension. Passenger door and hood are in good shape, so I may use those. Everything else gets cut up for sale (I've had several people already offer me $$$ for the roof) or for scrap with my old frame. I need to take both rear ends apart to see if they're in good shape and verify the ratio in the new truck. My current axle is a 12-bolt 3.73, open.
By the end of the year, I should have the suspension nearly designed & built and the engine and new trans in place. From there, I'll be able to mock up the driveshaft and start the custom exhaust (after cleaning and painting the frame and rebuilding the front suspension.
We're still up in the air on color, but I'm leaning heavily on this combo (well, my wife wants the "orange" color, and I can't find the particular hue she wants - this is closest):
With this sort of (17")wheel setup in flat or satin black:
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he better.
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NONONONONONONONO.
Truknutz are fer 4x4 BDMT's.
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Excellent project. Good write up. Nice way to spend your winter. Would like to see this in person in the spring.
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Not much to update - on hold for a week while we hit the U.P. for a week of XC skiing/saunas/hottub/snowboarding. I do have the new rolling chassis nearly ready to start work on:
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Got the new chassis...
Set up at the final ride height to measure for suspension components:
Cut 2" out of the front crossmember for ~ 1/2 of the drop on the front suspension:
Plan is to go with drop spindles for another 2.5" lower up front. This route, I can keep decent geometry - which shorter springs don't let you do. Planning on getting the front crossmember done tomorrow - then start mocking up the new engine and trans location.
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2" chop of the crossmember - just a bit more filling and grinding to go. 



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Things have been a bit slow on the truck, as I got Fallout # for Christmas and have been busy shooting bad guise.
:d:
So, here are a few pictures:
Old & Busted:
New Hottness:
Notches cut for R&P steering & inner fish plates roughed out. These plates will be the base to tie in the top and bottom of the frame's cross-section. This is necessary because of the notches AND the added moment arm the upper A-arm will have since it is mounted higher.
All I know is this: I want a plasma cutter so bad I can taste it.
:teehee:
Other developments:
I am now the proud owner of a Ford 8.8 IRS out of a Lincoln MkVIII T-bird supercoupe; stay tuned...
Last edited by scot_douglas (2011-01-18 14:13:44)
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Plasma arc's are pretty much the shizzle, dawg. I used to work for a metal sculptor and the days we were making shapes were definitely the most fun.
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Front end fabrication almost done
Comparison of the "chopped" crossmember vs. stock:

Backing plates in, notches cut out and reinforced:

Reinforcement for upper a-arms completed:


Next is to order the drop spindles and front-end crap, along with a mustang II steering rack and get it set up. 
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Quick picture update.
Rack and engine are near their final spots - ended up having to move the engine back an inch and I need to order a smaller crank pulley and damper. The current ones are 8" in diameter and the ones I'm getting are 6". This becomes very important with respect to where the rack wants to be for the steering geometry to work out.
High-dollar spacers to match alignment with the serpentine setup - temporary, of course.
Looking at the blurry spots - you can see where the rack would benefit from more clearance from a smaller damper and pulley.
I got these headers for like $5, and with the current mounting location of the engine (and ditching the mechanical clutch linkage) - these fit and will be used. Once I cut off the air injection tubing, there is plenty of room to run the steering shaft to the rack input (blurry silver spot in the photo)
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looks good scot! You might have this thing running before I have mine 
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Well done.... so far. You planning on restoring this bitch then selling it after like most enthusiast do? (please don't). 

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I would sell that piece in a heart beat.
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huck finn wrote:
Well done.... so far. You planning on restoring this bitch then selling it after like most enthusiast do? (please don't).
Nope, I think it'll stay around for a long time. My budget was $10K for the "finished" product. I'm finding that I may be able to come in way under that, even with buying all the new tools to teach myself how to weld and refinish bodywork. 
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These are on the way:
Blatantly copying this:
Less than 1000 miles, $575 shipped to my door. 
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What's that? IRS under an old pickup truck!?
Shit, more Ford parts on a Chevy - FWIW, this is just getting stored in a convenient place for the moment; I need to massage the frame and the cradle to make it look less like an abomination when I fit it in there.
Small damper on, rack in it's final spot, but I have to deal with tierod ends; for the best geometry, they need to mount from the underside. Looking into heavy-duty rod-ends and grade 8 hardware or drilling and reaming the steering arm from the bottom.
Air injection crap cut out and holes welded up. Plenty of room for the steering shaft.
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<insert "we're not worthy" .gif here>
I'm impressed, Scot. Keep up the good work.
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Is your garage door sporting some after market insulation?
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thymighty wrote:
Is your garage door sporting some after market insulation?
You know, as soon as I answer this, you're going to make fun of me, but it is a owens-corning precut kit.
I think I got it for $60 / door and it makes the garage a much nicer place in the winter.
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scot, i've been watching this project and i wish i had the ability to do work like this. 
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tilmonabbott wrote:
scot, i've been watching this project and i wish i had the ability to do work like this.
Thanks for the props, along with everyone else that has given me encouragement -
But I'd like to say one thing:
What I am doing is not magic and does not require much special skill. Seriously. I think the only difference between you and I is that I was in a position to make the "jump" and dedicate resources and time to teaching myself how to do this kind of stuff. I am naturally a "handyman" but in no way possess any skills - just a weird desire to create.
On various other site I visit, I have always marveled at peoples' skills and never thought I could do something like them. We bought this truck, and I decided I was going to fix the rust - then it turned into shortening the WB 3" for a different bed, and things tend to have snowballed from there. 
All it takes is confidence and a bit of courage, but in my case, stupidity and ignorance fill my sails. 
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