Here are the part numbers for the axle seals:

Left: 806735230 Updated number: Left/Driver side: 806735290
Right: 806735240 Updated number: Right/Passenger side: 806735300

O-Ring: 806975010 (same on both sides)

Last edited by kornfeld (2012-02-22 14:19:46)

So, annoyingly, the dealer gave me the axle seals in reverse (i.e., he gave me a drivers side and told me it was a passenger side, and vice versa).

I started to set the new passenger side axle seal into the driver side, and after I got it part way in I thought I should compare it to the old and busted one just to make sure everything was good to go.  I saw that they were reversed, so this is how I caught that things were backward. I pulled that new one out, and it tore up the mating surface a bit:





The rest of the surface looks completely smooth and undamaged. Just for clarity: I screwed up my original driver side seal; then pulled it and mistakenly started to set a new passenger side seal into the driver side spot; then caught it and pulled out the new passenger seal;  then set a new driver seal. 

Currently the differential has a new driver seal and an old passenger seal. 

The damaged one in the photos is the passenger seal.  (Hopefully that didn't make things even more confusing.)

Should I use this to replace the old passenger seal anyway, or is this a don't-fix-it-if-it-isn't-leaking situation?

Last edited by kornfeld (2012-02-22 14:32:52)

Transmission is back in.   

You forgot the beer again 

kornfeld wrote:

oh god, i just realized that i put the transmission back in, and forgot to put the new clutch and fly wheel in 

such an idiot

just kidding :-)

are you fucking kidding me?   

ahhh PHIL!!!    see it was so easy you had to do it twice... HHAHAHA

so nice when it isn't me....

I had been dying to come up with something of my own ever since I first read the "I ported my turbo by sucking sand through the intake while the engine was running" story.   



Anyway....any tricks to getting the axles back into the differential?  That's the last remaining major task.  Then put the ball joints back together, tighten up the DP, put the intercooler back in, yada yada yada....

And quoted for posterity:

eqlized_aero wrote:

it's pretty rewarding doing this yourself.

kornfeld wrote:

Anyway....any tricks to getting the axles back into the differential?

Mine have always just popped right in (with some force) 

Am I doing it wrong?

I just stumbled on this thread:

http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum/sh … -Disaster!

And read this, which is quoted from a subaru manual:

"When installing the clutch cover on the flywheel,
position the clutch cover so that there is a gap of
120† or more between “0’ marks on the flywheel
and clutch cover. (“0 marks indicate the directions
of residual unbalance.)"

I didn't see this in any walk throughs, and I didn't see it on the instructions that came from Exedy.  Am I fucked?

Bryan wrote:

1 in 3 chance that they are 120 deg apart.

Man, have you read the rest of this thread?!?  There is zero percent chance of something spontaneously working out. 

Thanks for the tips fellas, both axles are in.  However, there's a slight gap on both sides, and I can't remember if it was there before:



The axles are definitely set, and don't slide out...but I'm not sure if they're supposed to be further in. Do those need to be pushed in further?

I'm done.


I'm finally done.


I took it for a drive, and the clutch felt great.  No chattering, no funny noises, no nothing.


Sadly, I think I did mess up at least one ball joint, because I've got a clunk now when turning, particularly when simultaneously hitting a bump (like pulling into my driveway and going over the lip at the bottom).  I'll probably swap those tomorrow.  I didn't take the car up past about 20 because of the clunking, so I may find the car gets the shakes at speed, but I've got my fingers crossed.


Either way, I'm so relieved.  Thank you to everyone for all of the help.