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Welcome to Saab92x.com!
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The 6-Speed swap is done. If you want to read all about the problems that we ran into during the swap, click on this link to my main build thread and scroll down a bit.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr … amp;page=6
How the Car Feels to Drive:
Awesome 
Suspension
All the bushings and STI struts with Epic springs make for a pretty stiff ride (my opinion, compared to my previous setup). Everything has to break in and settle in so it will be a little rough for a bit. I can't really test out how everything handles when closer to the limit of these Direzza's because of no good, safe spots but I will know on May 7th at my first track day of the year.
Clutch and Trans Mount
So far, this South Bend Stage 2 Endurance clutch, with a holding capacity of 565 ft-lbs of torque at the crank, feels awesome. The recommended break-in period is 500-700 city miles and I have only done about 150 miles. It doesn't shudder, it doesn't make any weird noises, and the clutch pedal isn't any heavier than when I had the Exedy OEM clutch on with my 5-Speed.
The Cusco Trans mount is pretty sweet. everything is super tight and the noise increase is actually kinda cool because the noise is the whine of the gears. 1st & 2nd kinda sound like straight cut gears (might be) but it quiets up in 6th.
JDM Forester STI 6mt
The trans feels awesome compared to my dying 5-speed. I have 6 GEARS and they all work. :p
Now the JDM FSTI gearing is awesome. Still a little shorter through 1st-5th than on the 5-speed but with a sweet 6th gear for cruising. I was doing 75mph on the highway and in 6th gear, I was only turning 2700rpm. The 5-speed was around 3000rpm at that speed and the short ratio JDM STI standard 6mt's would have been around 3500rpm. It is a perfect cruising speed with a quick downshift for a little more boost production capability for passing torque.
All in all, this is a awesome swap. The brakes are tight, respond almost instantly with a slight touch of the brake pedal. The stoptech pads in these Brembo's are nice so far. The first track day will be their testing day too.
Now, onto what you all really want that isn't more story time, PICTURES. How can I not post them, the Wedsport wheels over the Brembo calipers is sooooooooo awesome. Gold on Red for the WIN!!! :ritz:
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Very cool, looks great too. Are your rear tires going to clear the rear wheel well ? Looks to me like they are going to rub, just curious.
Congratulations.
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Nice, welcome to the 6speed club. Myself, I had to get the rallyspec high speed gear set as I did not want those higher RPMs on all my highway cruises. Sounds like you found a way to do it on a budget 
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Rodman wrote:
Very cool, looks great too. Are your rear tires going to clear the rear wheel well ? Looks to me like they are going to rub, just curious.
Congratulations.
They are really close. At the moment, they look like they would rub. I'll be adding some camber bolts in the rear so we will see how much camber can be added before the tire would start rubbing the strut. It is pretty tigh clearance already.
The Forester STI gears are awesome, same as 07-09 USDM Legacy GT Spec B.
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I'm all signed up for RA gears, I am rescuing a black 05 with an 02 ver 7 drive train. Long way to go on the project, sad driving with no boost on my dd Outback.
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Congrats on the headlights; that's a tedious job! Rest of the car looks nice, too!
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I went down to see Mr. D Alex Butler @ Butler's Garage in Romulus,MI for some more fender rolling/pushing. He did the first fender rolling on the rears of the Saabaru and the rear fenders were the issue again so they needed to be pushed out more. Mr. Butler does an excellent job at fender rolling. No baseball bat here. He uses a heat gun to heat up the paint so it is more flexible and less likely to crack. He uses a laser infrared thermometer to make sure he is in a certain temperature range. Once he is good with the temperature, using an actual fender rolling tool mounted to the vehicle's hub, he starts working the lip pushing it outwards slowly. He reheats a couple times and pushes more. He even has a profile gauge (pictured below) to be able to compare the side and make them close to the same. We flared the fenders out quite a bit. (I'll post a picture in a later post of the fenders).
In the picture, the gauge is showing how much he changed the shape of the fender on the other side and seeing how much as to be done to get them the same.
After we finished working the fenders while on the lift, I loosened up the "Jesus" bolts (bolt that connects the lateral links to the hubs) and the trailing arm to hub bolts to grease the TIC bushings up. Mr. Butler had some magical silicone grease that stuck to everything and was waterproof so not easy at all to get off your hands if not wearing gloves. I applied some grease to the bushing outsides and on the bolt. Then I loosely snugged up the bolts and we set the car down on some ramps so I could torque the 4 bolts while sitting on the cars own weight. Seems to quieted the bushings a little and it will probably work a little more into the surfaces anyway but I wasn't worried about the noise really. Just wanted to make sure I didn't have a bushings binding up. That causes issues when at the track or pushing the car hard anywhere.
Mr. Butler happened to have car scale/weight measuring setup and he decided to weigh my car. After not putting the ebrake on and watching the car roll off the scale pads and almost into his toolbox and a bunch of other stuff (Rearward lift arms pinched on the tires and stopped the car from rolling forward any farther), we got it on the pads with the ebrake on and looked at the results. Not bad at all. Little heavier than expected on a half tank of gas but I haven't removed anything in the car. Just added a 6-Speed swap. :p
Left front reads higher because that corner is an incher higher than the rest of the corners. Metal tire chalk, that is bolted into the floor to make pulling a car into the shop to be put on a lift easier, is under one scale pad.
After all the fender rolling and car weighing, we go on a test drive to see if it still rubs. There is a road like a mile from his shop that has very low traffic volumes and has split dual lanes that both make a 90 degree turn with u-turns before and after. Visibility is perfect too because there is literally nothing near the corners except low cut grass. The road is near the highway and an airport. Anyway, when testing the left rear, Mr Butler sits in the driverside back seat (he is 280lbs) and holds on as I pitch the car around the turn as hard as the tires will allow me. He switches sides for testing the other side of the car. Very good way to figure out if it still rubs and he usually puts chalk on the fenders before we leave so marks will show up on the tires if they touch the fender.
Testing both sides, it still rubbed at the area where the bumper meets the back fender so when we got back to the shop, he took a cutoff wheel and trimmed the inner bumper corner and the metal in there to clear the tires. Then that was it, so hopefully no rubbing when I get on the track. I will be getting another alignment soon anyway once the MSI camber plates come in and I install them. The rear camber bolts were eyeballed all the way in but they might have a hair of negative camber left in them.
I have picked up a Defi Racer Red 52mm Oil Pressure Gauge Kit that was slightly used from a good seller on NASIOC.
I already had wired in the lighting aspect of my prosport before so I was familiar with how to do the wiring. I placed the Oil Pressure sensors in the spot were the OEM dummy light sensor is under the alternator. No relocation or adapters needed and the Defi sensors is small enough to fit without interfering with the alternator. Ran the plug from that up to the side of the AC compressor.
For wiring in the lighting part of the gauge, it has 4 wires. Red (Constant 12V power), Orange (Ignition), White (Illumination change) and Black (Ground). My prosport has 4 wires too but along with the illumination and ground wires, the other 2 wires get put together for 12V accessory so power only goes to the gauge when the key is turn to or past accessory.
I use Add-a-Circuit things that plug into the fuse box so I don't have to actually splice into wires. Easily reversible and way easier.
Decided to restore my headlights since they were kinda meh. I use the Mcguires kit with the drill polisher attachment. Took a little while but worth it. 
Had to adjust my ebrake too. I could feel it dragging on and off while driving. Started adjusting the shoes first by turning the little adjuster screws but it didn't seem to fix the isssue. I poped the center console apart and loosened the ebrake handle cable adjustment nuts and so far it feels good but I think something is still sticking. Nothing left to adjust so I'll have to pop the rear rotors off and clean/lube the ebrake shoes and springs.
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About a month ago, my buddy and I drove our Subies to Chicago for the Chitown Subaru's Big Meet on Sunday. We went on Saturday for some evening/night time playing around and then Sunday morning we headed early to the meet. The meet was awesome. The official count was about 400 Subaru's and then there was probably another 100 non-subaru vehicles in the side parking lot.
This was our little group.
After the meet, my traveling friend and our chicago friend drove into Chicago to go to a favorite photo spot and took some pictures.
My friend that drove with me from Michigan is a good photographer so this is a shot he took and edited a little.
I took these shots. 
First track day of the year went ok.
10mins into the first session, I noticed a nice blue cloud of smoke coming out the back of the car and my powersteering became notchy. I went around to pit road and went to my parking spot. I new my PS had leaked/burned most of the fluid out. I had a drip leak show itself a week before last weekend but I figured it would be fine. The leak was right at the High Pressure line to Rack fitting. I have a Flat 4 Motorsports braided stainless steel and teflon coated high pressure line and they use AN fittings so they include adapters to go on the OEM fitting that change to AN. Just fixed the problem today. Found the little o-ring was split, crushed, and missing a portion that seals the OEM fitting to the AN adapter so the fluid just pushed right past that under high cornering loads/high pump pressures at the track.
While at the track, I went and bought a short serpentine belt to delete the PS pump from that belt loop so the little belt only ran the alternator. I did a track day at the same track before on manual steering but that was on my BFG G-Force 235/40 tires and WRX drivetrain. Manual steering with 245/40 Dunlop Direzza's and the stiffer STI drivetrain sucked a lot. I could barely do 15 minutes of the 20 minute track sessions before my hands would start to hurt a lot. Grip endurance is not something I excel at. 
After 2 more sessions throughout the day, I was pretty tired and losing the fun having feeling so I skipped my last session, packed up and made the trip home. 
Pulling back into the parking area after hitting my muscle limits. Photo Credit to Gigs90
Trying to drive fast. LOL
Not saying the day was a flop, my one wish was granted not once but twice. I really wanted to see a 2016 Ford Mustang GT350 or GT350R. There was a GT350R that was in the beginner class. Later in the day, another GT350, non "R" showed up to spectate a little.
Photo Credit to Gigs90
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In more news, I bought Stickers. LOL
I wanted some "STI Saabaru Technica International" door decals but most pre-printed ones had red "STI" lettering which doesn't show very well on a red car. I found a company through the Saab92x forum called Rage Drift Designs. I chatted with them on Facebook and found out I could pretty much do any color scheme I wanted. A coworker suggested I do "STI" in gold and stick with black lettering for the rest. I already like gold on red and figured that would look better that just an all Black decal so I went with that color scheme and I love it. 
I also washed my car before the track day and took some pictures.
I had to wash the Saabaru again today because the Stoptech Street brake pads pooped all over my wheels. This was the worst one. It's all good now.
Next track day is this upcoming Saturday, May 28th. I'm going to a local-ish track called Gingerman. I've been to the track 3 times but as a spectator. This time I am driving at the Open Track Day. Going in the Beginner HPDE class so I can get an instructor and learn the track. I want to have driving experience on this track before Gridlife on June 10th-12th of which I am driving on the 11th & 12th. 
The MSI Camber Plates arrived finally and I got them installed last week. As usual for me, I thought it would be a straight forward and relatively easy job. Proved that wrong again.
Using spring compressors are never fun and always a pain in the ass. Always in the way or something. After I wrestled the driverside strut in place and tightened that down, I got the passenger side strut out and started assembling the camber plate and everything together off the car, and that is when trouble started. The top center threads on the strut were a little rolled over when the original nut was removed so the MSI special nut that had double the amount of threads wouldn't go past where the previous one stopped. I still don't own a Tap and Die set so a friend and I were working the original nut up and down the threads trying to clean the threads up but they slowly kept getting worse. I decided to just force the special MSI nut on and hope because at the moment, I looked at it as either way a new strut was going to be needed if I destroyed the threads the rest of the way or just abandoned the strut. In afterthought, a tap and die set would have saved everything. But I ended up destroying the threads on the strut and had to drive 1.5hrs, one way, to get a front passenger STI strut from a friend. Then I rented a tap and die set from the parts store and cleaned up the special MSI nut and the "new" strut's threads to make sure everything was good for assembly off the car. Got it all together, installed back on the car and ended that adventure. :derp:
I'm slightly upset that the plates raised my front end, what looks like, more that the advertised 1/4", but in the name of function and "I'm not getting an even thicker saggy butt spacer defeating the purpose of lowering springs", I'll deal with the added fender gap. :derp:
Sorry for 3 Posts right in a row. I still don't frequent this forum and I finally got myself to update the thread here from my main thread post on NASIOC.
Last edited by Saabaru300 (2016-05-24 00:13:20)
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Saabaru300 wrote:
In more news, I bought Stickers. LOL
I wanted some "STI Saabaru Technica International" door decals but most pre-printed ones had red "STI" lettering which doesn't show very well on a red car. I found a company through the Saab92x forum called Rage Drift Designs. I chatted with them on Facebook and found out I could pretty much do any color scheme I wanted. A coworker suggested I do "STI" in gold and stick with black lettering for the rest. I already like gold on red and figured that would look better that just an all Black decal so I went with that color scheme and I love it.
Decals look great. You were an awesome customer to work with. Thanks for the business and hope to work with you in the future.
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After a week of the Saabaru being on jackstands, I have the Brembo calipers back, rebuilt and re-installed. The color is a bit lighter than I was hoping but it still looks pretty good. The Powdercoater still has the 05-07 STI BBS wheels and those may be done in a week or so. I don't have a required deadline for those since I don't have any tires to put on them anyway. 
Along with the calipers being powdercoated, I did a bunch of other little things.
I installed new crush washers on the forward end of the 6mt oil pump external fluid line since it was leaking. It wasn't really tight at all either so new washers and tightened will hopefully do the trick.
I finally installed a good STI steering linkage. This is my 3rd one. First one was suppose to be a separate package from the same seller I bought my 06 STI steering rack from but USPS deemed the box damaged and sent it to a facility to become lost in. The 2nd one came with my JDM 6mt full swap this past spring but the splines on one end had been damaged too much so that one was garbage. I got this one from the importer like a month ago and finally got around to installing it. Install wasn't fun. The old linkage didn't want to come off without the steering rack mounting bolts being loosened up so the rack could be jiggled to slip the linkage off. In my attempt to keep the wheels aligned straight with the steering wheel, I failed and the wheel ended up being like 70 Degrees of rotation to the right to drive the car straight forward.
(FYI: This isn't my picture, same parts and chassis, local guy also installed one too and he took this picture of his stuff.)
I had a rattle I could hear every once in awhile so when I removed the plastic undertray shield, I noticed the stock metal heat shielding around the exhaust header was loose. I removed it (ripped it off). The ones on the top of the header are loose too but I didn't feel like removing the header to get those off so there is still a little rattle.
Otherwise, I did an oil change and finally cleaned the K&N pod filter on my K&N Typhoon short ram intake. I have had the intake now since probably Spring 2013 and it was used when I bought it. I never cleaned it when I got it or ever till now. lol
The other big thing I did was I changed some interior colors. I decided to kind of go after the JDM STI S203 & S204/USDM 07 STI Limited black center console trim. I picked up some Krylon Fusion Satin Black paint to do most of the bits in. Instead of the HVAC dials being silver like the previous cars this color scheme came stock on, I sneezed and went with gold. Lol
I picked up a new red hazard button and some HVAC center face decal overlays made by Subtle Solutions (because I can't tape off all those little shapes to paint around). Now all that is left for the dash is an 05-07 STI instrument cluster and a 05-07 STI steering wheel (Someday).
I like how it turned out a lot and I just like changes in general.
Last edited by Saabaru300 (2016-07-28 22:55:54)
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Yay to the satin black! 
Booo to the gold trim! 
You went too far with the gold. 
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Gold is mighty fine, don't change nothing until I get to see it.
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Bump for awesome.
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Sorry that my posts have been extremely rare. For being the main part of the car enthusiasts season right now (For the more north ones that have not so fun winters like me), I'm not doing much anyway.
Still haven't went to, or signed up for any more track days yet. Slightly budget related but mostly just a missing desire with my current setup. Plus I keep having what would seem like possible issues with drivetrain parts. I haven't been able to confirm any real issues but in a way I don't want to risk actual damage to a part like my 6-Speed trans, so I'm keeping track fun to a minimum unfortunately.
Haven't really working on much either. I got my 05 STI BBS wheels back from the powdercoater. They look AWESOME. I love the color. Cadillac Grey with gold flaked clear coat. 
Went to a local car show in Frankenmuth,MI called Northern Worthersee, for the 3rd year in a row. European only cars. Fun to think the 9-2x is, I think, the only way to sneak an STI into a euro car show. Lol
Had like 3hrs of no rain and then it started. Still was a nice day. I like rain and I had my huge umbrella too.
I decided to put my cars best exterior foot forward and washed it at 10pm the previous night after I got out of work. Then when I got to the show, I had spray detailer to clean any dirt that had kicked up and renews the last waxing. I also applied some tire wet gel. The tire wet really completed the powdercoated wheels. This picture below is actually my new PC screen background and I have had an Avenger Age of Ultron pre-theater movie release art as the background since before that movie released. Have to have an amazing car or car part picture to make me smile every time I see it. 
I ended driving 580 miles round trip to get some used Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec tires in 245/45R17 flavor for the STI BBS wheels. Picked them up for $70. Plenty of life on them and the newer version of my tires on the 18" wheels. Look a little skinnier by eye but they are both 245's. They do the job nicely, especially for the price I paid. :devil:
Otherwise here is a full picture while at the show that I took. A red car in beautiful green grass is pretty much perfect to me. 
Then a month later... I Broke Something.
Went to Chicago on the weekend of the 10th/11th for some events. On the 10th was Chitown Subie's "The Subaru Shootout" at Great Lakes Dragway. The 11th was the First annual "Subaru Nationals at Byron Dragway. I was going to do some fun runs in both events but that didn't happen.
I broke on my very first run at a drag strip on the 10th at The Subaru Shootout. Went on Launch Control (2 Step) @ 5000rpm, let the clutch out a hair initially to get the slack out of the drivetrain and then I let it out really fast the rest of the way (just a step below dumping it). The car shuddered a bit, I rang out 1st gear, went to shift to 2nd and couldn't get in gear at all. Tried other gears as I was coasting down the strip with no gears going in. At the end of the strip when I pulled off onto the side road back to the start, I got it into first and finally realized I have no clutch. Pedal felt perfectly normal, weight wise, and wasn't sticking downwards. We popped the TMIC off and through the little hole where the boot around the shift fork sits, we could see that the throwout bearing was moving with the fork. Slave cylinder was actuating normally but pushing the clutch pedal downwards would not disengage the clutch. I could still move the shift lever around into every gear. Later in the day when my car had been sitting for like 6hrs, Corbin Johnson (My Tuner), over facebook chat was very sure the clutch disk had welded to the flywheel. He had a surefire solution for this issue if it had just happen to the car but mine had been sitting for a while so everything had cooled down. There was no separating the disk and flywheel apart aside from possibly jacking the car up and jamming and screwdriver or crowbar between the to and trying to forcefully separate them but I didn't have the tools of motivation to do that. I know I could drive back to Michigan with rev matching and if I absolutely had to come to a stop. using the starter with the shifter in gear and bump starting it. Got it back to to my Mechanic (who did all of my JDM STI drivetrain swaps) so he could get the clutch out and I could work on warranty with South Bend Clutch. This was the clutch disk and flywheel. :grumpy:
I sent the picture to Jon @ South Bend Clutch and it was obvious what happen so he sent out a new disk with an updated material side. Stage 2 Endurance originally come with a Feramic side that had been known to "weld" to the flywheel if heated up real quick. Not just a problem with South Bend, other manufactures who have used the Feramic material have had this issue. Anyway, the updated material is just Ceramic so I should never have to worry about that issue again. Also, I had the flywheel re-surfaced so flywheel was all good.
New clutch disk is a little grabby. Still no where near some clutches that operate like an On/Off switch. Mine just like to start shuddering if you take off normally and slip the clutch a little long. Still in break-in period though for now. Almost done. Here is a picture of the one run I kinda tried to go. Lined up with another Saabaru friend from Chicago. He is V7 EJ207 on the stock 5mt drivetrain. Later in the day he really launched it and got a 13.5. The only date I have is my 60 Foot was a 2.070 (LOL, 207 is in the 60' Number) 
Next subject, It doesn't look like Feal 441 coilovers will happen over the winter. Based on how my 6-Speed will completely block the 2nd gear gate if I rev out first til I clutch in and out a second time along with shifting slower. 5th likes to grind a little if I shift (Up or Down) a little faster than normal. So I figure I need to have this 6mt rebuilt. It isn't cheap but I'm not buying another used 6mt for $2k-$2500 just for it to possibly have the same issue. These issues are known and kinda common issues. The 5th gear grind will most likely be some synchro's and the 2nd issue is probably a worn out plastic bit in the shift fork. But if I am having this 6mt refreshed, I want problem issues fixed permanently if there is an aftermarket or updated OEM solution, which there are. 06+ STI 6mt's received 4th-6th gear Carbon Synchro's which solves the synchro issue and PPG makes Billet Shift Forks which fixes the shift fork issue. This along with replacing standard wearing parts like bearings, hubs, sleeves and whatever else in the trans. Rallispec and Andrewtech are who I am currently talking to. Rallispec has a flat rate/package of $1750 for dissassembly, cleaning, replacing all the wearing parts, upgrade OEM synchro's, new OEM shift forks and the labor for all that. PPG billet shift forks is where it gets really expensive. If I want to replace all the shift forks with the PPG ones, it's $1200 for all of them. I may just do the 1st-2nd gear fork since that see's the most I load, fast and hard shifting abuse but maybe just some new OEM forks will last plenty long. Not sure yet. 
For the moment, I am going to drain and put new fluid into the 6-speed and my R180 rear diff. Hopefully the rear diff is just low on fluid since there is a wet spot below the lower drain plug. It feels like the rear diff is the cause of the very random bogging/dragging feeling I pick up on when driving sometimes. Definitely not engine related, that runs like a top. Might need a new R180 Diff that is AP Suretrac LSD and 3.90 final drive.
Some great news though. I now work at Oakos Automotive up here in Michigan. Sell mostly aftermarket Subaru parts, have other parts for Imports too. Our other big thing is the sale of Enkei RPF1 wheels.
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You should get with Scott B with the track only STI, he got his six speed rebuilt for a very reasonable price.
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Saabaru300 wrote:
Might need a new R180 Diff that is AP Suretrac LSD and 3.90 final drive.
The Suretrac LSD is the front diff on the MY04 STI trans, you have one in your rear diff?
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Love this car in red now thanks to your ride man. I like the black bbs wheels but i loved how those gold ones looked way better. I've been looking into the STI drive train swap too but just for the beefier hub bearings. Keep up the good work man.
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snowphun wrote:
The Suretrac LSD is the front diff on the MY04 STI trans, you have one in your rear diff?
Yeah, my rear diff is also an AP Suretrac. Pull the trans code off you 6mt and check the Rallispec PDF on 6mt info. It will tell you what your rear R180 diff is too.
TH0M45 wrote:
Love this car in red now thanks to your ride man. I like the black bbs wheels but i loved how those gold ones looked way better. I've been looking into the STI drive train swap too but just for the beefier hub bearings. Keep up the good work man.
Thanks. I do like nice Gold wheels on a Red Subaru Wagon. I'm trying to save up for some 17x9 +35 Enkei RC-T4 in Gold. I have to watch for sales since the 5th generation just came out of the Enkei Tarmac Wheel (RC-T5).
Otherwise, not too much has happened.
I swapped out the trans fluid for a mixture of 2qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof and the rest Motul Gear 300. The mixture has actually helped. 2nd gear is much easier to quick shift into when wringing out the 207.
Hesitation Issue has become much less noticable a week after I changed the rear diff fluid again. Motul 90PA (Tan/Brown Oil Color) was initailly put into the R180 when the swap was done but the fluid came out of the diff Red so I think the diff was not emptied when the swap was done. I think the importers put in some ATF to stop rusting.
I picked up some rear ABS sensor/wire assemblies. Now to install them and fix/replace the broken front passenger side one to get ABS working again. I am tired of the drivetrain clicking noise that are very audable because of the Cusco/Torque Solutions Solid Engine Mounts so I picked up some Group N Engine Mounts. They should help some of the sound resonance in the cab at certain RPM's too.
The big news is the Saabaru is getting put away for the winter. I picked up a 2003 Subaru Legacy L that needs a new longblock because of overheating issues. Almost everything has been checked to diagnose the issue and the last thought is a cylinder head is warped. The thermostat will not open once operating temp has been reached. Combustion gasses are probably getting into the coolant system, causing a nice air bubble that sits right around the thermostat keeping the temperature of the coolant away for it. I've already purchased a EJ202 complete motor from Jspec Auto. Just have to swap over all sensors and accessories to the longblock of the JDM motor along with the Cam and crank gears and supposedly it should work fine. :fingers-crossed:
Here are some recent picture of just being with friends or it be a nice day. 
I was surround by JDM at our little local Subaru Meet.
Left: Full V7 EJ207 and 6-Speed w/ STI Drivetrain Swap
Right: Gigs90's V9 S204 EJ207, Full 6-Speed and STI Drivetrain, Sedan Front and Rear Widebody'ed Wagon
Another Picture when Gigs90 stopped by Oakos here to pickup some wheels for a friend. 
Finally, a nice fall picture of my Chicago friend's Silver Bugeye on V7 STI wheels and my other friends Ver8 EJ207 and 6-Speed with STI Drivetrain swapped WRB Blobeye. 
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I spot the Giggs wagon, both yours and his are looking great.
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Rodman wrote:
I spot the Giggs wagon, both yours and his are looking great.
Thanks!
Gigs Wagon looks pretty nice. I'm not a big fan of the Mach V wheels. His paint is pretty nice. I'd like to aim for a full repaint and body repair over winter of 2018/2019. This winter is Feal Coilovers, Enkei RC-T4 wheels and maybe a Flex Fuel Setup.
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I like his wheels a lot, hope you can execute all your plans but your car is already very cool.
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Saabaru300 wrote:
Rodman wrote:
I spot the Giggs wagon, both yours and his are looking great.
Thanks!
Gigs Wagon looks pretty nice. I'm not a big fan of the Mach V wheels. His paint is pretty nice. I'd like to aim for a full repaint and body repair over winter of 2018/2019. This winter is Feal Coilovers, Enkei RC-T4 wheels and maybe a Flex Fuel Setup.
always hating on wheels..........SMH
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