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Welcome to Saab92x.com!
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Hello everyone, my names Carlo and as the title says, I just bought my first car at the ripe ago of 29 lol. I've always lived and worked in south beach so there's never been the need for a car but I've recently gotten married and moved farther from work and uber was getting expensive so I figured it's time to invest in a car! I wanted something cash so I found these Russian guys that apparently buy auction cars and resell them. I was originally interested in a Volvo wagon they had. I took two friends of mine both car guys, one actually is a plane mechanic the other just a hobby mechanic. We get there and see the Volvo and one gets down under the car and says "no, there's so much oil leaking from that engine". So I get bummed out and I tell the Russian that we aren't interested and I ask if he has anything similar so he tells me he has a Saab wagon (I don't know much about cars but I heard from many people not to fuck with Saab) so I look at my friends and they're like "well let's go see it, it's in the price range and we're already here. So we get in their car and the Russian gives directions on where it was because it was held in a different lot. When we get there I see this little wagon with shitty paint and I'm already not feeling it but one of my friends speed walks up to it and turns around with a cheesy ass smile and says "you have no idea what this is huh?!" And I wasn't sure what he meant so he pops the hood and looks under then gets in starts it up and says "dude, get this this is a million times more reliable than that Volvo! Long story short, he more or less explained what it was so I went home and got online and read up and saw the cult fallowing that car has and was impressed. The next day I went with a mechanic and let him do his work. He connected a computer to it and said the car is fine and he says he thinks it's safe to buy. He did hear a thing or two in the back but couldn't tell me what it was for sure without a lift. I asked if it was something bad and/or expensive to fix and he said no, that it could be (I forgot what) and that isn't gonna cost more than 200 for parts and labor. So I made a deal with the Russian and took it home that day. Been driving to work for the last week and everything's good. Can't compare to anything else cause like I said it's my first car. I'm happy and I plan on learning more about it.
I feel I got an ok deal. Ended up paying $3400 and it has 117k miles. Body has few dings here and there but nothing bad, interior is very clean and great condition. I've seen similar go for more so I'm happy.
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Hey buddy, I'm the Bike Junkie here, your user name is close to infringement, what's up.
Welcome.
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Maybe OP is into Brazilian Ju Jitsu?
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Make sure the timing belt has been done
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LordZed wrote:
Maybe OP is into Brazilian Ju Jitsu?
Oh shit, I better thread lightly.
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LordZed wrote:
Maybe OP is into Brazilian Ju Jitsu?
currectamundo! I have an unhealthy obsession with twisting limbs lol
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drewsro wrote:
Make sure the timing belt has been done
Excuse my ignorance but what excatcly does that mean? Is that the rubber belt that wraps around pulleys on the motor? If so I saw my guys kinda flick at them and continues going over other things. They didn't pay much attention to it. Is there anything I should know in particular about it? After driving it more I feel that the rough take off is when the wheel is turned close to the limit. I think it has something to do with the steering.
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Rodman wrote:
LordZed wrote:
Maybe OP is into Brazilian Ju Jitsu?
Oh shit, I better thread lightly.
groan 
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Bjj_junkie wrote:
drewsro wrote:
Make sure the timing belt has been done
Excuse my ignorance but what excatcly does that mean? Is that the rubber belt that wraps around pulleys on the motor? If so I saw my guys kinda flick at them and continues going over other things.
It means that you really need to make sure that the toothed belt that keeps the pistons and the valvetrain of the car playing nice with one another has been changed at or around 105k. If it has not been changed, you should do it ASAP. Also recommended to change the tensioner and all of the idler pulleys. These belts are hidden behind the black plastic covers on the front of the motor, and cannot be inspected without removal of the LH cover half. A good mechanic should be able to determine if the belt has 117k on it or >10k miles.
The belts you can see on the front of the motor are NOT the timing belts. Those are the belts that run the accessories (the power steering, alternator, and A/C).
I did a lengthy writeup on a timing belt change in an Aero several years ago - you can reference it to see what is involved and why it's usually $$$ to change it. You don't mention if you have a turbo or non-turbo car - so this thread may or may not be applicable to your car.
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krazykarguy wrote:
Bjj_junkie wrote:
drewsro wrote:
Make sure the timing belt has been done
Excuse my ignorance but what excatcly does that mean? Is that the rubber belt that wraps around pulleys on the motor? If so I saw my guys kinda flick at them and continues going over other things.
It means that you really need to make sure that the toothed belt that keeps the pistons and the valvetrain of the car playing nice with one another has been changed at or around 105k. If it has not been changed, you should do it ASAP. Also recommended to change the tensioner and all of the idler pulleys. These belts are hidden behind the black plastic covers on the front of the motor, and cannot be inspected without removal of the LH cover half. A good mechanic should be able to determine if the belt has 117k on it or >10k miles.
The belts you can see on the front of the motor are NOT the timing belts. Those are the belts that run the accessories (the power steering, alternator, and A/C).
I did a lengthy writeup on a timing belt change in an Aero several years ago - you can reference it to see what is involved and why it's usually $$$ to change it. You don't mention if you have a turbo or non-turbo car - so this thread may or may not be applicable to your car.
Thank you, I'll have someone take a look at it in the near future. If they have not been changed, more or less how much would it cost (Parts and labor)?
And I got the none turbo one.
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You are going to drop a few hundo, you need to take care of the timing belt issue as soon as possible, don't sleep on it, it will cost you a motor replacement if the belt fails. A Gates timing belt kit for you motor is not that expensive, labor will cost more than the kit. As you've been advised, replace all the idlers, tensioner, water pump and thermostat. It would be a good time to asses what else needs attention, accessory belts, radiator and radiator hoses, etc. Good luck dude.
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Rodman wrote:
You are going to drop a few hundo, you need to take care of the timing belt issue as soon as possible, don't sleep on it, it will cost you a motor replacement if the belt fails. A Gates timing belt kit for you motor is not that expensive, labor will cost more than the kit. As you've been advised, replace all the idlers, tensioner, water pump and thermostat. It would be a good time to asses what else needs attention, accessory belts, radiator and radiator hoses, etc. Good luck dude.
Thank you, I found the gates timing belt kit with water pump for just under 200 bucks. Is it complicated to install? Cause my friends are all pretty handy with cars but if it's complex, I much rather take it to a shop.
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Bjj_junkie wrote:
Rodman wrote:
You are going to drop a few hundo, you need to take care of the timing belt issue as soon as possible, don't sleep on it, it will cost you a motor replacement if the belt fails. A Gates timing belt kit for you motor is not that expensive, labor will cost more than the kit. As you've been advised, replace all the idlers, tensioner, water pump and thermostat. It would be a good time to asses what else needs attention, accessory belts, radiator and radiator hoses, etc. Good luck dude.
Thank you, I found the gates timing belt kit with water pump for just under 200 bucks. Is it complicated to install? Cause my friends are all pretty handy with cars but if it's complex, I much rather take it to a shop.
It's not necessarily tough to do, but you just need to know exactly what you are doing otherwise it's easy to screw up your car.
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OP still has not mentioned if car is Aero (turbo) or Linear/2.5i... 
If you don't know the difference between accessory belts and a timing belt, I strongly suggest you take it to the shop. As drewsro says above, botching this job is not an option - it will destroy your engine if you get it wrong.
This job took me 5 hours in my garage, and required more than a basic level of repair knowledge to perform. I've been wrenching on cars since I was 15 (I'm 38 now). On a difficulty scale of 0-10, where 0 would be installing a floor mat, an oil change is a 2, and 10 is a complete engine/drivetrain swap - a timing belt change is a solid 6.
On the Aero at least, the following items need to be removed BEFORE you can even think about changing the belt:
Engine undertray
Radiator
Upper and lower radiator hoses
Both accessory belts
A/C idler pulley and tensioner assembly
Crankshaft pulley
Left, center, and right timing covers
After all of this is done, then you're here:
Then you get to replace the belt and all of the pulleys and idlers and the tensioner...
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Bjj_junkie wrote:
And I got the none turbo one.
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Missed that. 
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There are narrow armed individuals doing it without removing the radiator. I prefer radiator out for more room.
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I don't mean to hijack the thread too much so a quick answer would be fine. I have an 06 aero and am getting the timing belt done this week. I've spoken to three different Subaru dealerships and another in NY that my friend owns and they all tell me not to worry about the waterpump. I've already lost a VW to a stripped belt because tensioner and waterpump were not done with the belt, so i'm leary of skipping these on this car.
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92xGot2boostit2 wrote:
There are narrow armed individuals doing it without removing the radiator. I prefer radiator out for more room.
Just try and get an impact gun on the crank pulley bolt without pulling the radiator. It's a moot point if you are replacing the waterpump anyways.
Phodgkins wrote:
I've spoken to three different Subaru dealerships and another in NY that my friend owns and they all tell me not to worry about the waterpump. I've already lost a VW to a stripped belt because tensioner and waterpump were not done with the belt, so i'm leary of skipping these on this car.
Water pump is a judgement call on a relatively cheap part. All of the idlers and the tensioner are not. If the interval is 105k, can the car really wait until 210k for a water pump?? I thought not and replaced mine when I was in there.
w00t! Post # 8000 
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Valid point for sure, Thank you 
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Some people also do the oil pump, same logic as with the water pump. I've always replaced the water pump and thermostat on timing belt changes but never the oil pump.
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Yes, oil pump is not on any timing belt list I've ever done. Typically look good when disassembled on none bearing failure rebuilds.
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yea, how hard can i make this job? maybe swap out the rings real quick, they wear out eventually too 
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I think that most of the time, the oil pump is swapped out for a 11mm STi unit when it is changed. Some NASIOC people claim that this prevents the spun bearings in the EJ20. You know what prevents spun bearings? Regular oil changes and checking your oil levels frequently. Not a 1mm larger oil pump.
The oil pump doesn't typically fail in ANY car, mostly due to the design of the pump itself, and the fact that no motor can run without oil pressure. A car can still limp around (not for long) without a water pump.
Water pumps with metal vanes typically don't fail regularly, either - most pump failures are seized bearings.
Last edited by krazykarguy (2017-01-12 09:29:10)
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krazykarguy wrote:
I think that most of the time, the oil pump is swapped out for a 11mm STi unit when it is changed. Some NASIOC people claim that this prevents the spun bearings in the EJ20. You know what prevents spun bearings? Regular oil changes and checking your oil levels frequently. Not a 1mm larger oil pump.
The oil pump doesn't typically fail in ANY car, mostly due to the design of the pump itself, and the fact that no motor can run without oil pressure. A car can still limp around (not for long) without a water pump.
Water pumps with metal vanes typically don't fail regularly, either - most pump failures are seized bearings.
Dude , that is SO true!
I spent time contacting the assembly plant that built the Quad 4 engine for GM and the teardown technicians all said that regular oil changes on the short end of the oil change cycle and maintaining levels contributed to long life in those engines. At the time GM came out with a high output 7k rpm motors, the greater percentage of bearing failures were root caused to be poor maintenance or low oil level. The boxers I've encountered have all been extended oil change interval failures. Oil breaks down over time due to many factors. I just don't understand why people don't get it. Lazy and cheap on the front end. They sure get pissed when you hit time with that $4k engine replacement bill that is for sure.
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