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Just replace the guibo, it's a little bit of a painn but it's all that is necessary. He's right, it's a $2500 car so anything less is even better.
Have you seen a photo of the whole drivers seat? I'm thinking by the looks of it that the drivers side bolster is blown out.
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-B- wrote:
Just replace the guibo, it's a little bit of a painn but it's all that is necessary. He's right, it's a $2500 car so anything less is even better.
Have you seen a photo of the whole drivers seat? I'm thinking by the looks of it that the drivers side bolster is blown out.
No. Haven't seen the whole seat. The only pictures I've seen, y'all have seen. 
I talked with him. We shall see. He's busy, and me getting around the valley is tough without, you know, a car. Will report back with more information.
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Before we go any further. 255,000.
Serious opinions on this, please.
Last edited by Justin86 (2012-03-28 16:11:09)
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Might wanna do a compression check. I have no issues with the trans and diff, if they've been reasonably well maintained. This motor is by no means "stressed" in its stock state. They are timing chain motors and rebuilds typically entail new chain and freshened head... piston rings if things are bad.
I wouldn't be surprised if it could turn another hundred...
If it went I'd just swap in another running motor for 500$ and call it a day. Correction, S54 swap
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I had an 89 Honda. Had 254000 when I bought it freshman year of college, drove it until 289000, when it blew up because I was driving at 90+mph on the backroads. That was my own stupid fault.
Interesting points, tlow. I've heard nothing but great things about the power plant and drive train.
With all that said, I do have lots of resources at work. Cherry picker, tools up the ying yang (beyond what I already have, which is significant), stuff that is required to pull an engine.
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Always wondered the fascination with these cars. My buddy has one that he talks about all the time but is constantly giving him headaches and is currently down with transmission issues. What does this car compare to back in the day and what makes them so sought after?
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White slick top looks great. Hope you get it . . . then start a maintenance thread.
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I'd avoid a car with that kind o' mileage. You're just a couple of leaky seals or a spun bearing away from the cost of a nice lower-mileage car that will be a more reliable daily driver.
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1. semi-drunk post. 
2. I tend to agree with you, Bunn.
3. The only thing drawing me is the white on black with standard transmission is exactly what I want.
EDIT: Want. 
Last edited by Justin86 (2012-03-29 11:05:36)
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Here's the worst-possible scenario if you buy that car: All the mechanicals are worn out, what does a rebuilt driveline go for? Say you get it for $2k, motor shits the bed - what does one of those things run rebuilt? For $5k-$6k, you could have your classic car with a fresh motor and trans / clutch.
The only thing bad I have ever experienced wrenching on those (albeit, only for a summer) was the cold start injector located in the intake manifold. Two different cars came in, one of them hydrolocked, because of the ECU commanding the injector on 100% and filling the intake with liquid gasoline. I don't know if that is rare, but I remember it odd that two different cars came in for same thing.
Sharp car.
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Oh - I have not kept up - we made MAD CA$H from having the proper tool to reset the proprietary BMW maintenance monitor: Is there a DIY way to do that these days?
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scot_douglas wrote:
Oh - I have not kept up - we made MAD CA$H from having the proper tool to reset the proprietary BMW maintenance monitor: Is there a DIY way to do that these days?
As far as I know, and research, no. It's still the finicky tool.
Scot. Thank you. Always sage advice.
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You can use a wire to jump the reset on the old maintenance monitor.
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It won't catch on fire...I promises.... 
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Update. The guy took it in, and "the mechanic said it was the coupler right next to the trans. It's like a disk under the car but it's kool only 300 bones to fix"
verbatim text. What do folks read from this? Guibo in my opinion. Like. Exactly as I expected. And yeah. I can fix that for 1/4 of that according to some quick research
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Justin86 wrote:
Update. The guy took it in, and "the mechanic said it was the coupler right next to the trans. It's like a disk under the car but it's kool only 300 bones to fix"
verbatim text. What do folks read from this? Guibo in my opinion. Like. Exactly as I expected. And yeah. I can fix that for 1/4 of that according to some quick research
that's the beauty, they have been around long enough and are so loved that everything imaginable is known about them and you can, in most cases, DIY with these cars. If you have a nice 87' 325is you'll never want for a buyer.
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Justin86 wrote:
'86 325es....
the "is" was more sought after, though an es would certainly be more sought after than an e sedan. I'd actually prefer a sedan as I like the added length on a lowered car. Either way you slice it, when it comes to mid 80's to 91', the e30 will probably hold the highest demand next to the ///M cars and gray market tuner cars from Alpina and Hartge. I think the biggest draw to the BMW's from that era are the performance and style compared to most every other offering available at the time. There just wasn't much to be excited for then.
I still think about getting a lowered e30 sedan with a big six dropped in with Alpina wheels......that will always look good. That or another ///M535i.
Though the wagon would be a cool find too.
Though the coupe is teh sex too
damn you Justin
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you just learned me on what exactly the 'is' 'es' 'e' difference is. I was so diligently searching... Wow. I'm an idiot. 'sedan' = 's'
Wait. EDIT: now I'm really confused.
yahoo questions wrote:
A quick and easy way to determine a "Eta" from an "i" on the E30 platform is to look at the rear under the bumper. "i" cars have a lower (roll-pan) effect built into the structure that brings the rear of the car lower by 8'' or so, "e" cars have no lower section under the rear bumper. Some cars were on special order "is,es,c"that have varians,but other than this major difference in the back, the "eta/e" cars have a 2.7 liter version of the M20 engine but with lower compression,and different stroke,as apposed to 2.5 liter "i" engines with higher compression and shorter stroke.
"eta" does get slightly better MPG but has drastically lower power and torque when taking off from a stop sign than and "i" car. With afew modfications and money the stroked 2.7 found in the "eta" can make more low end power than a "i" but for simple add-ons found on ebay,or in most typical shops for quick changes, the 2.5 liter "i" engine is better.
Regardless,both engine types are DANG good ones,as is the entire car. If it has an Automatic trans.,chances of it spinning the tires in cornering are going to be very slim. Even with a modified engine,Automatic cars don't like to spin the tires.
Last edited by Justin86 (2012-03-29 17:19:37)
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my beater e30
e28 M535i
My friends H7S.....someday I plan to own this car.
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Justin86 wrote:
scot_douglas wrote:
Oh - I have not kept up - we made MAD CA$H from having the proper tool to reset the proprietary BMW maintenance monitor: Is there a DIY way to do that these days?
As far as I know, and research, no. It's still the finicky tool.
Scot. Thank you. Always sage advice.
In the E36s one could use a wire to the correct PIN ont he OBD connecter and ground to the chassis for 'x' amount of seconds +/- .5 seconds and it'd reset. Quite sure the same applies to e30s. Takes a couple tries, but certainly works.
linx' are cool cats
http://www.noren.com/bmw/e30reset.htm
And yes, -B-, yes. Love that Alpina goodness.
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Justin86 wrote:
"s" sport, "i"injected, "e" eta
BMW number breakdown
1st number series, 2nd and 3rd litre size.
letters
i - injected
e- eta
L- long wheel base
s- sport
there's more but you get the idea. Hence 325is = 3 series, 2.5, injected, sport
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