![]() |
|
|
|
Welcome to Saab92x.com!
Hi everyone, |
Well, I noticed a nasty smell the other day coming from the bay area and also smoke coming from the hood scoop. After much investigating I found that the passenger inner boot has split and grease went all over.
A good amount landed on the down-pipe and of course that's what made the smoke and nasty smell. 
I looked up some schematics and asked around and come to find out that I can go ahead and replace the boot if I take the axle apart per the diagram I was given from the Subaru dealer.
What is the consensus here on this? Change just the boot or the whole axle? And, how long can I go like this before changing or starting to hear any weird noises?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Aero | 4EAT | Graphite Rota Torques | Factory Stock for now...Offline
Offline
The Bay Area always smells like shit..
Offline
General consensus is to replace it.
http://saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?id=39681
http://saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?id=33292
Online
I would install a new boot, because the replacement axles have suspect quality. The original factory axles are high quality.
http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-su … explained/
Last edited by 2old2rocknroll (2012-04-17 08:07:43)
Offline
I would just reboot it. The aftermarket axles are crap. I remember reading something on nasioc that Driveshaft Shop can sell you a high temp boot for that location. Give them a call and see what they offer. I'm interested in this as well; mine hasn't torn yet, but I'm sure it will soon.
Aero - #30/338 - black - 5spd - VF39Offline
2old2rocknroll wrote:
I would install a new boot, because the replacement axles have suspect quality. The original factory axles are high quality.
http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-su … explained/
An article on why replacing boots is a better idea than the whole axle, coming from a repair shop... Riiiiiight. 
It takes more labor time to replace a boot, and less parts $$$. Ideal situation for any small repair shop/facility. Of course they would try to convince you of this. It makes them more money (labor is where most shops make their money)!
Granted, aftermarket axles are an unknown quality/quantity, but they are much cheaper (sometimes to the magnitude of 4-5 times!!!). I think that as others have done, a comparison of the old axle vs. the new axle should obviously take place before installing the new one. Make note of the components of the replacement piece before installing it. If it's not the same, don't use it!
For years, the auto parts industry has been selling and re-selling re-manufactured components for years. Axles are no different.
Also, take into consideration that once a boot is split, the clock is ticking for that joint. ANY dirt, grime, water, sand, etc. that has entered that C/V joint is already degrading the bearings inside of it. I would only ever replace just a boot if the bellows were discovered to be cracked, but not yet breached.
With a new/re-manufactured axle, you get new grease, new joints/bearings, and new rubber boots. With boot replacement, you have more labor (time to R&R the axle and R&R the boot. In the end, you still have the same axle/joints, etc., and are at the mercy of the tech took it apart that he/she properly cleaned the joint, and installed the correct type and amount of grease.
Last edited by krazykarguy (2012-04-17 12:53:16)
Offline
If he's doing the work himself a boot is alot cheaper than an axle that doesn't even need to be replaced.
Aero - #30/338 - black - 5spd - VF39Offline
It's not the cost of the boot. It's the cost of your personal time. What's your time worth?
You'll spend ~2 hours doing just an axle removal/replacement. Whether or not you do just the boot, this is required labor time.
If, by chance, you have the special C/V boot clamp pliers, you'll spend an additional hour removing the old boot, cleaning the joint and bearings, and replacing the grease & boot. This additional hour does not include the clean up time that is involved. If you've never dealt with C/V grease, you're in for a treat!
Who is to say that the bearings in his axle haven't been contaminated with FOD, and will fail after replacing just the boot?
Having done both boot replacements and axle replacements, I vastly prefer a reman axle over a boot replacement.
Offline
Just checked on AutoZone pricing of a boot vs. an axle.
Boot (P/N K2131): $10 (figure another $10 to buy the crimping pliers)
Axle ass'y (P/N 60-7281 or 10394): $60
If an hour (or more) of your time is worth more than $40, do an entire axle.
Offline
If you search around long enough, you'll find people who had a fine experience with cardone, and a bad experience with cardone; a fine experience with EMPI, and a bad experience with EMPI; and most everyone has a fine experience with Subaru parts.
If you're willing to shell out the cash, the best option is probably a subaru axle. But they are big bucks.
I went with the Cardone Select axle (which is new, not reman'd). I drove mine around last night for about 15 minutes, including taking it up to 70 mph, and driving it down the steepest/curviest street in SF, and it was fine. Hopefully it'll hold up; time will tell.
The concern I've read with rebooting the axle is that (like KKG mentioned) crap can get into the axle. There's no way of telling when it opened up and started exposing the joint to the elements. All you know is when the hole got big enough and you went fast enough to really sling the grease out.
Another option is post #25 in the second thread I linked to above.
Online
I just don't trust the quality of these Chinese axles.
Offline
I did some more reading around on NASIOC, and EMPI axles seem to be more popular than the Cardone axles over there. Just FYI.
Online
2old2rocknroll wrote:
I just don't trust the quality of these Chinese axles.
Keep in mind there are plenty of American products that are total crap as well.
Online
Thanks to all for your input on this matter
.
Krazykarguy and kornfeld, you guys are right and I think that I will go ahead and just replace the whole axle. I looked around and for about $100 I can get both front axles. I don't remember the brand that was listed but I will definitely keep in mind what you mentioned kornfeld. Also, the thread on how to loosen the nut is excellent. The jack is a good idea for that especially since I don't have an impact wrench.
Also, after reading some more I think that I will loosen the struts so that I can get the axle out. Heck I just changed the struts (and let me tell you I had some trouble removing those bolts
) so the bolts are still easy to remove.
As always and again, thanks for the help from all of you. 
Aero | 4EAT | Graphite Rota Torques | Factory Stock for now...Offline
The link from my post (#4) is from Justin Stobb who owns all wheel drive auto. They specialize in repairing subaru's.
He is just sharing his knowledge on things that he has seen after decades of experience. You can follow his advice or not.
Offline
FYI....don't order from partsgeek.com. Details here:
http://saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?pid=674477#p674477
Online

I just read the thread where you had the problem with them. That sucks. Thanks for letting me know. 
Aero | 4EAT | Graphite Rota Torques | Factory Stock for now...Offline
|
|