thymighty wrote:

Nicely done.   

FWIW, reducing your wheel diameter might also quiet the ride some. 

Yeah im aware of that and i am really starting to feel the stiff sidewalls. I don't plan on selling the rims, so oh well. I do however plan on putting my performance rubber for autocross on my stock sized wheels for less unsprung weight.

I am more than happy using these rims for DD and driving around on the streets.

The road noise is probably due to the mounts.  When I went back to the stockers, it got real quiet in a hurry.  JP, you are biased towards performance, and you should expect good things.  I don't know what tires you have, but they will make a big difference, too.  Nice to see stuff coming together, though!

BooGTS wrote:

Very nice. Not to threadjack, but does anyone know the proper specs for alignment? Just looking for a street cal, normal tire wear kinda deal. Mine needs one, but don't want to depend on whatever the shop 'puter says. It needs a 4 wheel right?

yeah alignment settings came with my springs...

for no added tire wear, have 0 toe at all four corners. The rear has a fixed camber of around ~1.1 to 1.5 negative camber. You can buy adjustable bolts if you want adjustable camber in the rear.

In the front, you MUST buy camber bolts and dial in ATLEAST -1.1 camber. Works best with stiffer dampers/springs or atleast front sway bar.

The most important part is that 0 toe. More camber will help you corner hard without eating up your tires, but for the street, the toe is what you really need to make sure your alignment guy nails.

Grats On your sweet uber suspension set up  welcome to the club 

I have the CG Camber plates / Top hats I can get almost 5 degrees of neg camber up front.  You can't get more than neg 1?   Stupid question but can you rotate the top hat in anyway so you can get more camber out of it?  That just seems low to me.

Lots of good info in this thread I would just like to add to OP ...   Are you aware of the dampening curve associated with the Koni's?   If you ride full stiff on the Koni's .. Full turn to stiff then back it off 3/4"  to 7/8" a turn to get it back into the max.  See how the stiffest setting begins to go back towards the line on the bottom?
I would Recommend the rears a little stiff than the front. ONLY because it will help a little with lift off oversteer, which can help in transition if your going to fast. (Why because their is not as much tire holding the ground under those forces) The back of the car is light and added with a stiff suspension it can actually hurt it.   Scargo would agree with me their.






It's a SWEET setup you have for autoxing.    All you need now are Rcomps and you will feel like superman out their driving on velcro.  Honestly they make that much of a difference.  I saw a average of 2 seconds on my first couple runs with Rcomps.

You want  at least/max -1.5 / -2.0  of camber anything more than 2 you are really gonna see some serious tire wear on the sidewalls. Especially with  40psi min air pressures and body roll (Zero) which is gonna make the tires slide side to side more under the car. ( The Force has to go somewhere if you remove it from body roll.. right?)

You want 0 TOE!  Not a little bit of Toe in.  For one your really not going to be racing on the street so it doesn't matter that much about the minute differences  for handling on the track. what it's gonna do is eat the shit out of your tires.     Realize though that if you have plates and can adjust camber you affect the ratio of Toe at the same time.
Zero Toe will allow your car to feel more neutral which is what you want for learning correction/ AND the best handling spec available  in constant transition racing.

The more positive caster the more Dynamic Camber this is what you feel at mid apex when you either NAIL the turn and glide right out of , or miss and feel the car shift or lean more at apex.   

and obviously  you want no thrust angle at all.. NONE.

Marty 

Last edited by SaabRX (2012-05-27 09:04:27)

Nickguyver wrote:

2JZ, nice setup, was tempted when I saw it in the Vancouver local forum but I've decided to go with ST or KW V1 coils instead.

I've also been looking at the white line com c top hats and I can't believe you are only getting -0.7 camber when the product can do -3.5!
I'm sure you know this but those top hats can be installed 2 ways, one way for Max camber and rotated 120 degrees for Max caster. Before you add camber bolts check the installation of the top hats to see if that gives you the camber you need.

Also, hope the noise isn't entirely mount related as I will have to rethink my strategy if it is!

I found them from a Vancouver classified section on NASIOC. I got him to ship it. I had them set at max camber AND max caster.

I found the problem to my noise issue. it was just worn front end links. I ordered new endlinks all around and this should fix the problem.

Last edited by 2JZ (2012-05-27 15:42:25)

2JZ wrote:

Nickguyver wrote:

2JZ, nice setup, was tempted when I saw it in the Vancouver local forum but I've decided to go with ST or KW V1 coils instead.

I've also been looking at the white line com c top hats and I can't believe you are only getting -0.7 camber when the product can do -3.5!
I'm sure you know this but those top hats can be installed 2 ways, one way for Max camber and rotated 120 degrees for Max caster. Before you add camber bolts check the installation of the top hats to see if that gives you the camber you need.

Also, hope the noise isn't entirely mount related as I will have to rethink my strategy if it is!

I found them from a Vancouver classified section on NASIOC. I got him to ship it. I had them set at max camber AND max caster.

I found the problem to my noise issue. it was just worn front end links. I ordered new endlinks all around and this should fix the problem.

Did you just order replacement OEM endlinks, or did you upgrade?

It would be cool if we could get some like that with the grease zerks on the end.   

2JZ wrote:

Came back with camber bolts and redid.the alignment. I got negative 3.0 

Get some aluminum STI sedan lower control arms.  You'll need to realign everything, but I was really surprised at how much difference it made.  I was expecting some improvement, but I got more than some.

Track width, too.  I just had the steel ones, and there was noticeably less understeer.  I had previously added caster from canber plates, though...

  well, they can't rust... 


Also subjectively, a better ride, and theoretically stiffer, depending upon the design.

Linear Man wrote:

2JZ wrote:

Linear Man wrote:

Track width, too.  I just had the steel ones, and there was noticeably less understeer.  I had previously added caster from canber plates, though...

Are they more desirable over the aluminum ones?

No, but lots cheaper (used) and you get the track width taken care of.  Just find somebody with a sedan and the STi Aluminum ones.  Chances are he's got a set of steel ones in his garage/storage unit you can have for cheap.  No added caster, though.

I got the aluminum ones from eBay.  Two different sources had the two different sides.  Can't remember what I paid, but if anyone cares I can look it up.